Massimo in full story telling mode keeping Rinaldo transfixed

 Melide to Pedrouzo, 32km

Before I start on today, last night’s dinner definitely requires some attention as it was pretty special. The lovely (and extremely patient) Franco had offered to cook for me, another Australian in the albergue called Bernadette and his son, Rinaldo. 

Rinaldo has quite challenging learning disabilities and as such I think Franco finds it easier to cook in the albergue than to go out to eat.  They started walking in Sarria, aiming to do the last 100km (as are a lot of people around at the moment) and are aiming to cover about 15km a day … although apparently Rinaldo doesn’t always agree with this plan and there have been a few sit down strikes. 

So Franco, being Italian, of course manages to whip up a very simple yet amazing feast and with a few glasses of wine under our belts and Google translate constantly on the go, we are vaguely managing to communicate.  Rinaldo’s language is fairly limited but he is obviously enjoying his pasta and has taken to Bernadette, dubbing her Nona (grandma) almost immediately. 

A few hours later, a very suave Italian gentleman called Massimo turns up and is instantly seconded as translator.  Massimo is on his third or fourth camino and is writing a book about the myths and historic stories along the route. While he walks on occasion, he is just as happy to spend a few days in a particular town and then jump a bus, so he randomly turns up every few days.  In any case, he soon launches into a very animated telling of the story of the great hero Rinaldo.  He instantly has our Rinaldo transfixed, clapping and giggling at what I can only assume are the appropriate places.  Franco is sitting beside me videoing the moment and slightly emotional at the joy his son is getting out of this interaction. 

I definitely have to put this down as one of the most beautiful moments of my camino … and to happily elevate Massimo to the status of great hero himself. 

So this morning, when I woke up and it was *gasp* dry, it only reinforced my already good mood and encouraged me to crack on with an early start. 

The morning session was beautiful – up and down through loads of misty river valleys, crossing a series of old stone bridges fit for any self-respecting troll and then following the path through fields of wild flowers.  Have decided the few hours I walk before breakfast are my favourite part of the day – it is so quiet and peaceful and I generally have the camino to myself. 

Gum trees are us

 The one notable thing making quite an appearance of late is the good old Eucalyptus tree.  Like any good Australian, I am usually a little snobbish when I see the trusty gum tree far from home – it may be growing here, but it is soooo not native.  These areas were so uniformly and densely planted that this was obviously some kind of regeneration project, but the sight, smell and sound of them was enough to transport me back quite a few years to a day of walking with my grandfather as we chuckled at some pretentious Sydney-siders getting excited about koala scratchings. 

Anyway, was on such a high that I powered on all afternoon, fuelled by an outstanding lunch at Aunty Dolly’s House (Casa De Tia Dolores) so I am now safely tucked away in an albergue in Pedrouzo (which for some reason also goes by the name of Arca do Pino) – a mere 19km standing between me and Santiago de Compostela.  

Eek – big day tomorrow and slightly nervous already.  Fingers crossed I don’t mess it up from here!