Santiago de Compostela 

I figured today I should get out and about a bit more and take in a few of the sights of Santiago.  Besides, having spent two nights in a lovely little hostal, it was time for me to change hotels again. 

After his little visit on the camino, Ian had kindly booked me in for a night at the beautiful Parador – Heaven on Earth for pilgrims wanting to treat themselves to a bit of luxury at the end of their camino. The Parador was initially a hospital for pilgrims and the people of Santiago, but has since been converted into a museum and five star hotel. It is absolutely the perfect end to the camino as it gives you a chance to feel connected to the history of the pilgrimage – all from the comfort of a supersized marble bathtub.  The room is amazing, as is the experience of wandering the halls, checking out what amazing piece of pilgrimage themed art is hanging on the next wall and the joy I have had just sitting on a sofa in a quiet corner, reading or looking out over a medieval courtyard fountain. The only challenge is getting your head around the fact that a gin and tonic now costs more than what you had been paying for your accommodation every night – time to re-embrace consumerism. 

I also took a bit more of a tour of the cathedral today, taking in the religious bling in a bit more detail.  I managed to see the remains of Saint James that I had travelled so far to see … well, I saw the ornate silver box that is, slightly disturbingly, said to hold ‘key parts’ of Saint James (I didn’t want to go into any detail as to what they might be). I also got to complete my pilgrims rites, which pretty much involved hugging a statue of said Saint – bit of a whatever moment actually. 

 

 What I did really enjoy was walking over to the other side of town (yes, walking!) to the markets and having a wander through their enormous seafood section.  This is one of my favourite things to do anywhere I go, but here the diversity of what was on offer was incredible.  Galicia is renown for its seafood, with Octopus such a famous local dish (particularly in Sarria) that there are restaurants called pulperias that specialise in serving it up just right. In any case, the markets were a bit of an eye opener in terms of the number of fish breeds I had no hope of recognising and the types of shellfish that are served up as delicacies. 

And of course, my last night in Santiago wouldn’t be complete without a little celebration party with those that had arrived today. Dominic (of the magic first aid box) had now turned up, and it was a pleasure to be able to introduce him to lovely Scottish Maggie (our self-appointed camino mum) Egil (looking a little quieter today after birthday celebrations that apparently went on till the wee small hours) and Cecelia (a Swedish humanitarian aide that works for the United Nations and has a surprising number of Swedish military tips and tricks up her sleeve).It was a much quieter affair this evening, with some pretty heavy conversation taking place about what we had all taken out of our camino experience … all as we shared what may well have been the world’s largest seafood platter.  There was a lot of talk about the impact that the kindness of strangers has had upon us, some good old belly laughs about the fun we have had and the strong bonds we have formed with other pilgrims and a whole lot of examples of the camino providing, just what you need, when you need it. 

I am not sure I can sum up what impact the camino has had on me just yet – or maybe ever.  But it has definitely recalibrated my mind and my body in some way. I do feel the need to at least try to wrap this whole experience up with one last post at some point during my few quiet days at home, so am taking on the challenge of thinking this through a little to see if I can write something coherent. Though at the moment, my biggest priority is getting home, changing my clothes (!) and seeing how long it will take for Ian to get bored with me hugging him.