Beautiful start to the morning in San Nicolas

 San Nicolas de Real Camino to El Burgo Ranero, 27km 

Today would have to go down as one of the prettiest starts to a day I have had so far.  If I thought the scenery was lovely this yesterday, you can imagine the cramps I was getting in my photo-taking finger when the sky was just brushed with pink and the rising sun cast a stunning orange light over the landscape. Just loveliness.  Then rounding a corner to even more loveliness.  Gush, gush, gush. 

My first goal of the day was Sahagun, a town (or maybe even a city) that was both a lot bigger than I expected and a lot lovelier. It seemed to have a beautiful old church on just about every corner and it was an absolute delight to take my morning tortilla and tea overlooking the main square and watching the locals go about their business.  From what I can gather, most of the more mature gentlemen are sent off to fetch fresh bread at around 9.30 every morning and most use it as an excuse to pop in for a quick fortifying shot. Got to admire their style. 

After Sahagun, things took a turn for the decidedly mundane and I can probably best describe the afternoon walk in cycling speak – clocking up junk miles. 

I challenge anyone to come up woth an uglier picnic spot

 The path all afternoon was one of the sendas – recently made camino paths that my guidebook describes as soulless errors of national development agencies …and not sure I can top that for a description. The paths are generally about a metre from the nearest road and I suspect were put in as an add-on clause to whatever contract was awarded to build said road.  So path of least resistance was definitely the approach taken in putting these in. For the most part they have no shade, no bends and not a great deal to look at. They do offer the occasional rest area – though the ones I past today, comprising of block concrete tables and chairs in the middle of a field of dead grass, did little to suggest anything to do with relaxation.  Still, when the sun is out, the Beatles are playing a live concert on your head (All you Need is Love) and you have some walking poles to twirl, sometimes the crap scenery just doesn’t matter. 

And when you are met at the end of your journey by a hospitero who plies you with wine, ham and fabric softener (oh the luxury!) just because he had a great holiday in Australia ten years ago, then you need to chalk this up as another good day … even in spite of a small incident involving a blister filled with toothpaste rather than antibiotic cream (mental note for future – no wine before feet are well tended!)