David giving me a tour of his dream garden

 Villar de Mazarife to Astorga, 32km

After the slightly industrial, modern roadside feel of the past week or so, I finally feel like I am finally back on the real camino today. Wide open spaces and unspoiled countryside – fingers crossed it stays that way for a while. 

I left Mazarife early doors this morning with Canadian John which made for entertaining – if a bit heavy – chat for the first few hours. But after breakfast (think I drink my tea too slowly) we parted ways and I was flying solo once again … feet and boots having come to an amicable arrangement (at least for the moment) and life feeling pretty bright and shiny. 

After a few quaint little villages this morning, it was back into the countryside and I spent the afternoon walking on a wilderness track, not seeing a car or another person (with the single exception of a brilliantly hand-made statue in the middle of nowhere that I am pretty sure was supposed to be a pilgrim, but could equally have been a homage to Elvis). 

The skies were quite intensely grey with the threat of rain most of the day … which is a bit of a shame as I know this stretch would have been stunning had the sun been out. 

However, the most random surprise of the day came about 6km outside of Astorga where a modern day hermit called David has set up a little pilgrim sanctuary in the middle of nowhere.  He has just completely dropped out of society – sleeping on a little bench he has built and putting together a little ‘donations only’ style collection of random refreshments (I had a great avocado) while he works on his life’s mission – carving a little dream garden out of the desert-like surrounds.  

He greeted me with a deeply heartfelt hug (both lovely and slightly disconcerting) and promptly sat down to chat with me about his refreshingly out there view on life before giving me a tour of the garden of dreams. He has been at it for six years, and although progress is pretty slow (every pilgrim to come past gets his absolute attention for as long as they want it) am pretty sure in another six years time (or maybe ten) it is going to be something very special indeed. He eventually sent me on my way with another hug and a ring of his pilgrim bell … definitely with a spring in my step and a smile on my face. 

Which of course was just what I needed because two minutes down the road the heavens opened and it was poncho time for the first time in a couple of weeks.  Still, I had enough of a buzz from my little break in dreamland to keep me focused on the spires of Astorga Cathedral and to brave the rain for another hour or so till I found my way to a delightful old albergue where the inhabitants are now all sprawled on big couches in front of an open fire while a quite unusual gent with an amazing voice serenades us all.  Very nice end to the day indeed. 

Very happy toes … despite pedicure now looking slightly worse for wear